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Iona pilgrimage

 

 

 

Celtic cross in Abbey grounds Parish Pilgrimage

to IONA

 

11-18 September 2004

 

View of Bishop's House

On a fine Friday morning, 23 people in six cars left Grange, Appleby and Morecambe to do the first leg of our journey to Iona.  As we reached Scotland, the weather deteriorated, and by the time we reached Tyndrum, via Loch Lomond, where we were to stay the night, the hills were shrouded in mist and heavy rain.  However, spirits were high as we dined - rather late - in the very good restaurant.  We left around 10 am the next day, fortified by an excellent breakfast, to drive through the Highlands, again in rain, to Oban for the ferry to Mull.  Our drivers had to contend yet again with wet conditions on the narrow twisting single-track road to Ffionfort where the cars were left, and we boarded the much smaller ferry for the ten-minute sail to Iona.  It was only a short walk to Bishop’s House, but we were grateful to have our luggage transported for us.

Chapel at Bishop's House

A warm welcome awaited us, tea and home-made cakes, and we were shown to our rooms to unpack, and later Michael, the Warden, explained the daily routine of the House, and how we could help in a modest way by clearing and re-laying the tables after each meal.  Dinner on Saturday evening was comparatively subdued, due no doubt to fatigue from the journey, particularly for the drivers, but subsequent meals were taken with considerable noise and hilarity, particularly in the evening when the wine flowed!

Each morning at 8 am Ruth or David celebrated a Eucharist in the beautiful chapel in the heart of the House, and in the evening at 9.45 pm Compline was led by different members of the party.

 

A most glorious sunrise greeted early risers on Sunday morning, and later we all attended a Eucharist at the Abbey, a most impressive service though somewhat different from the way we are used to celebrating.  The Abbey was full, perhaps 250 people, who were taught two of the chants before the service began.  The President was a lady priest from Canada, dressed in ordinary clothes but with a brightly coloured stole.  At the offertory a large flat loaf was taken up to the altar in procession, along with several people carrying large flagons.  After the consecration these same people went to different parts of the abbey taking a portion of the loaf, which was passed from person to person, each breaking off a small morsel.  The flagons also were passed along the pews for everyone to partake.  The remaining bread and wine were taken back to the Altar, and later processed out.  I would like to have known what happened to them!  the Abbey

After the service, refreshments were served, and each person was given an oat cake and invited to share it with a stranger, thus bringing all the congregation into fellowship with one another.

Meal timeAfter a light lunch at Bishop’s House most of us walked to the North Bay, the more energetic taking the hilly route, with extensive views of the surrounding islands, others opting for a more gentle walk along tracks and on springy grass, and all were rewarded by the beautiful bay with white sands and azure sea.  We had been fortunate to have a dry day with some sun, until we neared Bishop’s House at tea-time when the rain came.  But we were cheered by tea and cake, which was the pattern every day.

Every morning alternatives were suggested as to how we might spend the day.  Most of us on a brilliant Monday opted to follow John Diment to St Columba’s Bay, the spot where St Columba is reputed to have landed in a simple rowing boat with a few followers.  For seasoned walkers, this walk was taken in their stride, but to some of us climbing round rocks and negotiating bogs was a major operation, though we were willingly aided by the male members of the party.  Our efforts were rewarded by the wonderful views we saw all around us, and the attractive pebbles and pieces of marble we found on the beaches.  Many of us paddled on the sandy beach; four or five brave souls even bathed in the icy water - on two occasions!

View of MullAnother day the more energetic did an even longer Pilgrimage around the island, led by a member of the Iona Community, in which some 100 people took part, visiting particular holy sites and having periods of prayer, hymns and just silence, as they made their way around the island.  Small groups did shorter walks, had conducted tours round the Abbey, visited the Heritage Centre and Craft Fair, or sat in the garden and read or talked. Three or four of the group sadly were not able to walk far, but explored by taxi wherever there was a road or track, and learnt a great deal about the islanders, as well as seeing some of the lovely bays.

There were boat trips to Staffa to see Fingal’s Cave, and a red-sailed boat which went round the islands off Mull, with sightings of seals, basking sharks, several different seabirds, but sadly no puffins.

Our evenings were spent chatting, doing crosswords, playing bridge and charades, or trying to read in the quieter lounge, and all with much mirth, until 9.45 pm when most of us attended Compline before retiring.Rainbow

Our departure was not without some drama.  Because of heavy seas and strong winds, the ferry was not able to come into the landing stage, but a much smaller craft, which we had seen tossing about on the water, offered to take us across to Mull, and enabled us to catch our connection at Craignure.  I was not the only one to have misgivings but the thought proved worse than reality, and we all arrived safely for the next part of our journey, again in mist and rain.

I think I can speak for us all when I say we had a delightful holiday.  The weather from Monday to Friday was perfect, and we were able to absorb Iona looking its loveliest.  We enjoyed the comfort of Bishop’s House, the fellowship of being with friends, and our services of worship enhanced by the music and singing from the members of the choir who were with us.  But, above all, we were held together and drawn into discipleship by Ruth’s dedicated leadership and guidance which inspired us all.  I felt privileged to be a part of the Pilgrimage.

Pat Crosland


During the week some of the party composed the following 'ode' (sung to aurelia - better known as The Church’s one Foundation)

When we set sail to Iona

The ferry didn’t sink,

In spite of all the ballast

In form of things to drink

We took liquid refreshment

All sorts of every kind

Intended to refresh us

In body, soul and mind.

 

A warm reception met us

As we arrived in rain.

Maybe we chose the wrong place,

And should have gone to Spain.

But Sunday dawned most glorious

Red hues across the sound.

We spent the morn in worship

And walked the highest ground.

 

Oh what views there did greet us

Across the ocean wide,

White sands and azure wavelets.

Some paddled at low tide.

The water it was freezing

And from it some did shrink,

To Bishop’s House they hurried

For home-made cake and drink.

 

The pattern for we pilgrims

Had now been firmly fixed

With worship night and morning

Exploring in betwixt.

While some stayed close to homebase

The rest roamed far and wide

All listened to the sounds that

Were borne in on the tide.

 

The Cal-Mac siren ‘ding donged’

The bell for Abbey tolled.

The seagulls screeched their message

The dinner gong was bold

Sammy the seal was swimming

The oystercatchers piped

The sheep were grazing in the field

The rams and bulls were ripe.

 

Columba’s Bay was glorious,

The marble quarry green.

Loch Stonah marsh and boggy,

The hermit’s cell serene.

Along the lanes we wandered

In Columba’s steps we trod

And as we walked we pondered

Our trust and faith in God.

Some of the group went swimming

Despite the freezing cold,

Dressed only in their undies

How could they be so bold.

For some the shops they beckoned

With varied goods on sale,

Whilst others sat on beaches

And turned to bronze from pale.

 

The evenings they were festive

With crosswords, games & mime.

And Nancey entertained us

With her own story time

Meal times were loud and noisy

The food extremely good,

With wine and spirits flowing

Some drank more than they should.

 

And some sailed off to Staffa

And others south of Mull,

With basking shark and grey seals

Seen swimming off the hull.

Mike climbed the hill on Staffa

While Michael steered ‘red sails’

Then back for lunch together

To share each other’s tales.

Our pilgrimage is ending.

The week has nearly gone

We’ve walked talked and learnt a lot,

The sun has brightly shone.

These Celtic shores they lured us

And we’ve been truly blessed.

We’re going home rejoicing

To have a well-earned rest!